Q: Hypoxylon canker has infected some of the oak trees
in our yard. Do you have some good information that you can forward to
me that I can pass around the neighborhood? It seems that some of the
information that I've received from local tree removal companies is
conflicting. Bottom line: do the infected trees need to be removed, and in
doing
so, will that help prevent the spread of the disease?
A: See my article on post oaks which contains a section on
hypoxylon. There is not general agreement about whether or not to
remove infectious trees. As my article states, my opinion is that
removal will help reduce the chance of other trees contracting the
disease. Chance is the qualifying term here and that is the debate. Is
the risk abatement worth the cost of removal? I have a bias toward
saving trees. Others have a bias towards saving money. The only good
of leaving them standing is that these "old snags" as they are called,
although unsightly, can become good nesting sites for cavity-nesting
wildlife. Also, once they have been dead for 9 months they are
non-infectious so the disease risk side is no longer a factor.
Q: I planted blackberry on my property and am really sorry as it
is taking everything over. What is the best way to get rid of it?
A: These plants have deep roots and may be hard to control.
Consider a brush killer containing glyphosate and/or triclopry. You should
be able to find these products in most garden centers. Please be sure to
read the label and follow the directions precisely as these products can kill
trees or any other plants they contact.
Q: I'm new to the Denton area. I would like to get a recommended
seed list for a spring vegetable garden. Can you tell me where I
could get such a list?
A: Refer to the following links:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/Plantanswers/vegvar.html
http://denton-tx.tamu.edu/PubCat.cfm?COUNTY=Denton&CatID=1200
Q: I have had a few people call me about oak trees seeming to produce
an
inordinant amount of sap this year, and specifically during the last 2
months or so. Any ideas why this might be? Is this a response to the
prolonged drought conditions? One person has claimed that the sap is
actually waste from a massive aphid infestation.
A: The person who said they were aphids was right. Aphids are
normally heavy in the summer months but in some years such as this one, they
flare up later in the year. I have a short discussion on aphids in my
article on post oaks which I have attached for your information. You can
still probably go out and see them but after Thursday morning when the hard
freeze comes, they will disappear with the drying leaves.
Q: We have mistletoe in a tree in our front yard, and we are wondering
how to kill it. It seems to be located in three spots on one limb. I
found an article from 2003 on the Texas A&M website regarding mistletoe and a
growth hormone, but could not find any further data.
A: The Floral Pro growth hormone was not consistent in its results.
The only way I know to get rid of it is to remove the branch that it is
growing on. You can cut it off the branches but it will grow back since the
roots are embedded in the limb tissue and will sprout back from the
roots. A lot of people just have their trees pruned every few years and
keep it in check that way. Even though it grows back at least they get to
keep the branches. If you can catch it early before it invades major limbs
you have a chance that it won't ever get too bad. It does not tolerate deep
shade so one of the best strategies for minimizing mistletoe is maintaining
good foliage through good soil fertility, watering, and pest management.
(answer by John Cooper)
Q: I have a garden plot about 7 ft. x 23 ft
that didn't get planted for several years and got covered over with Bermuda
grass. I have been told that covering the grass with 7 or 8 layers of
newspapers now and dyno dirt or hopefully something cheaper will keep the
sunlight off and eventually kill the Bermuda. My husband has offered to cut
the grass down to the dirt with a weed eater. I am building a compost pile
to put on in spring. I am intending to keep everything organic. My
questions are: Will the newspapers layered be the best thing to do? Will I
need that many? How much and what kind of dirt do I need over the papers.
Should I plan to till the ground sometime or not, and if so, when?
The link referenced above contains an article that provides full details
about the solarization process.
Q:
I am hopeful
that you might be able to give me some
helpful direction. We moved into our home
here in Lewisville in 2001 and planted new trees in the front yard at that time.
Essentially, they have not grown much at all
and look very unhealthy, despite regular
fertilization, and even a special growth
hormone treatment at the advice of a local
Nursery Owner.
